Kalash Valleys

Tucked into Pakistan's north-west corner, Chitral is remote, isolated, and completely surrounded by mountains. The Kafiristan range to the west and the Hindukush range to the north separate it from Afghanistan. To the east and south, the Shandur and Hindu Raj ranges enclose Chitral's wild alpine country. Narrow forested valleys, ancient cultures, and hospitable inhabitants impart a unique and charming character to this region. Towering above its cultivated valleys are snowcapped peaks, with Tirich Mir (7706m), the highest peak in the Hindukush, visible from various vantage points throughout Chitral. The Hindukush boasts 38 summits above 7000m, including Noshaq (7492m), Istor-o-Nal (7403m), and Saraghrar (7349m). The multitude of large glaciers draped on the flanks of these peaks disgorge torrents that eventually flow into the Chitral River. From its densely forested southern valleys to its arid and open northern highlands, Chitral remains a trekker's delight, perhaps due to its isolation.

Kalash Culture

The Kalash are the only non-Muslim people left in the Hindukush. About 3,000 Kalash still practice their pre-Islamic religion. "Kalash," which has negative connotations, is the Chitral word for the Kalash people. Birir, Bumboret, and Rumber are the common Khowar names for the three valleys inhabited by the Kalash. In Kalashamun, the language of the Kalash, Birir is called Biriyoo, Rumbur is called Roghmo, and Bumboret is more accurately pronounced as Bomboret. These valleys lie south and west of Chitral town and west of the Chitral River.

The Kalash are subsistence farmers who herd goats in pastures. Their fields, while irrigated, are not terraced. Villages are located just above the fields, at the base of rocky hills. The flat-roofed houses are tightly clustered. Carved wooden figures of Kalash men, standing or mounted on horses, called gandao, honor ancestors. These figures are now scarce, most having been removed by collectors and museums.

Festivals

The Kalash celebrate their festivals with reunions, feasts, ceremonies, singing, and dancing. For exact dates, it is best to ask locally. Their main festivals are:

• Chilimjusht or Joshi: Celebrated in May, this festival marks the arrival of spring.
• Uchal: Celebrated in late August, it honors the summer harvest.
• Phool: Celebrated in mid-October, it marks the ripening of grapes and walnuts.
• Chaumos: Celebrated in mid-December, it is the most important Kalash festival, marking the end of the harvest and the arrival of winter.

These festivals are vibrant displays of Kalash culture, featuring traditional music, dance, and rituals that have been preserved for centuries.

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