From Kalaikhumb we leave for Emts village in Bartang valley, some of 175 kms of terrain ahead of us, and the promise of some spectacular scenery along the way. The road joins the river Pianj, which in turn forms the border with Afghanistan. The contrast across the river valley is telling, Tajikistan is undoubtedly a poor country, but in general the roads are sealed and buildings are connected with electricity. The situation barely 100m away is even starker, and it is as if the river represents not just a physical divide, but also a step back in time.

Exploration the local people and environment. Next day we will drive to Gisev valley and cross Bartang River by footbridge. Although we should have some time to explore upon arrival, we will explore in more depth on. The trek begins on the river Bartang just beyond Bhagoo village and is mostly gently uphill, for about 8km to the upper of three lakes. The first houses in Geisev are reached after about 5km. The abundant vegetation, the gnarled trees, the lakes and the ever-changing river – sometimes frothing with energy, sometimes limpid and blue – create a very special peaceful atmosphere, ideal for a short break without too much physical effort. This route passing lakes and rivers traverses some of the most magnificent scenery in the Pamirs After the trekking drive to Khorog. 90 km 1,5 hour. Drive through more superb scenery, alongside the river Panj which forms the border with Afghanistan. We are in the capital of the Gorno-Badakshan Autonomous Oblast (GBAO). We have a little time to explore local people and Khorog including the bazaar and the lovely Botanical Gardens which are perched high above the town, affording some great panoramic views.

About 50kms along the road to our next stop, Ishkashim, we will stop at Garmchasma hot springs for an (optional) dip in the waters. From here, we enter the Tajik half of the Wakhan Valley (shared with Afghanistan) and pass regional gem mines mentioned by Marco Polo. The most famous mine is Koh-i-Lal ruby mine which is visible from the road. Ishkashim itself may be the regional centre, but it is essentially still a large village and we stay in a traditional style guesthouse here. Meals included: 1 breakfast, 1 Lunch, 1 dinner